The sun beats down golden upon the medieval city of Split, Croatia, its ancient structures reflecting off the shimmering and placid waters of the Adriatic Sea. And while the promenade that runs along the edge of the water is constantly brimming with local and visiting folks alike, there is also a very dreamy haze that permeates the atmosphere. Perhaps Dubrovnik and Zagreb first come to mind when planning a trip to this Mediterranean country; but, let’s not forget that Split is the second largest city in Croatia. And not only is there deep medieval history connected to the area, but it’s also a great jumping off point to various other day trips in Dalmatia.
During my Croatian travels, I dedicated a good two days to Split. I flew directly into the city at the Split Airport (SPU), then took an 8 Euro bus to the old city center. While I prepaid online on the Pleso Prijevoz website, I was delighted to find that I also could have charged my credit card on board, too. Upon arrival, I was dropped off at a small but bustling station where other cross-country buses rolled in and out in haste. (If you are boarding a bus, be prepared to fight toward the top of the line…or should I say, mob of people?) Just a quick walk down the bumpy, arcing path along the shoreline, and I found myself where all the action in Split was happening.
Riva Promenade
The Riva Promenade was the first place I rolled my suitcase down while on my way to my villa. The promenade faces lines of various sized ships, docked and rocking slowly on the gentle waves. Benches scatter the wide, paved walkway where people sit or stroll to gaze upon the endless sea. A perfect afternoon activity is to idle over a glass of wine—such as a Plavac Mali or Pošip—at one of the restaurants that peeks over the promenade. On the other hand, you could grab a slice of pizza at a local walk-up window, and take your place on the edge of the shoreline for the best view of the water at sunset—which is where I found myself on my first slow night in Split. As the night grew dark, the lights of the distant ships became like bright stars on the horizon. I listened to the incomprehensible chatter of four French women having a smoke, perhaps enjoying their own leisurely holiday during the pleasant autumn Mediterranean season…
Diocletian’s Palace
Diocletian’s Palace is the heart of the city. Not only is it the most important historical site, but it’s also where the public comes together to enjoy shops, restaurants, and hotels. When you step inside the palace walls (perhaps as you search for a gelato shop to indulge at…there are many!), you might want to take a second to breathe it in: It’s really impressive to be wandering the ruins of a 1,700-year-old ancient palace.
Palace Shopping & Restaurants
Once, there were extravagant rooms where royalty in Diocletian’s Palace were entertained; now, a thriving city center operates within its skeleton. The maze of endless turns and skinny alleyways leads you deeper into the palace. You’ll find traditional Croatian cuisine, both independent and big brand clothing stores, and, of course, souvenir shops. However, my favorite was a small shop called Pčeclia-A-Art Split. An energetic and amiable owner chatted for almost an hour with me, allowing me to taste samples of her rich, homemade honey spirits. The amber liquid jolted my jetlag away as it ran smoothly down my throat. She opened up a book of handwritten messages from visitors from around the world, and I paused to contribute my own paragraph–signed, with love, from a new Chicago friend.
I did mention gelato above, so it’s only fair that I share the favorite of the town: Gelateria Emiliana. Get ready for a long line because this is probably the most popular place to enjoy a cold treat on a hot Mediterranean day. If it wasn’t for the quality, it wouldn’t be worth the wait. Even Phil Rosenthal paid his respects by having a lemon-lavender gelato in an episode of Somebody Feed Phil.
Visit the Key Palace Sites
Diocletian was Roman Emperor in the 3rd century. This palace was ultimately his retirement home. Today, you can enter key sites including the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, Bell Tower, Temple of St. Jupiter, Treasury, and Crypt. It’s only $15 for a “Purple” ticket to make your rounds to all five sites. The temple and crypt are quick visits: single-rooms with a statue or bust and old, carefully carved stone. However, the tower offers a bird’s eye view of the city, the treasury is a multilevel museum of ancient artifacts, and Saint Domnius is known as the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world.
For a separate fee, you can go down into the quiet and eerie substructures of the palace. These halls were once filled to the top with dirt and debris and had to be excavated in the mid-1900s. In juxtaposition to a preserved medieval oil press and other ruins, contemporary art exhibits are regularly displayed down here in the dark, winding tunnels. (Admittedly, I couldn’t help but wander until I positioned myself in the exact spot where I could imagine Daenerys’ dragons were locked away in season 4 of Game of Thrones.)
Marjan Hill
This area of town provides the best aerial view of Split. Forest Park Marjan contains hikeable trails spanning an entire peninsula that juts out into the Adriatic, and it lies to the west of the Varoš neighborhood, where I happened to be staying. From my villa, I made twists and turns amid old crumbling stone walls, until a long set of stairs led me straight to one of the first viewpoints: Teraca Vidilica. A patio decked with tables and chairs was packed with folks breaking away for a drink and a moment to admire the old city below.
The highest point of the park is Telegrin Peak: At the very top, a giant Croatian flag flies–an ideal photo op once you catch your breath and adjust to the crisp, higher-altitude air. If I had more time, I may have made my way around the coast of the peninsula to explore some sandy spots, like the popular Kasjuni and Bene Beach. However, as the evening wore on, I slowly made my way back, climbing down in time with the setting sun.
Day Trips
Split is conveniently located near Trogir, just a 30-minute bus ride away. The old town of Trogir is a UNESCO World Heritage Site residing on a small island, with plenty of shops and restaurants that are bound to contribute to a charming day trip. For Game of Thrones fans, another suggestion would be the filming site of the fictional city of Meereen: Klis Fortress, only 10 Euro for adults per ticket and under an hour via bus or car. But, if you’re looking to get out into nature, try Krka National Park and Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Both national parks are home to mighty, streaming waterfalls and winding grounds meant for exploring the wildlife. Plitvice is the oldest and largest national park in Croatia and has been lauded in beauty by many; however, Krka—my chosen day trip—is closer in proximity to Split and shares in splendor. That same main bus station I arrived at was where I booked my FlixBus to take me approximately 2 hours out to the city of Šibenik. Here…is where I promptly got lost. It took me a minute to find the big glass building near the port where I could purchase a ferry ticket. Fortunately, it gave me a chance to soak in the cozy, sleepy village. The cost of the ferry (which includes the park entrance fee) will vary by season, and it’s a short ride to Krka. I walked the entire park within one afternoon, learning about the old water mills and admiring the field of tiny purple flowers blooming underneath the lush foliage on my long, shaded hike.
Take It Slow Like a Local
All these activities are sure to fill up two full days in Split. But, if you’ve got the time, take it slow. When you book your trip, pick out a few “must-do” activities, then leave ample room for leisure. By taking my time, I found my own entrance to Marjan Hill, and, along the way, I stopped to say hello to an old woman selling colorfully patched, handmade bags in front of her home. By recommendation of my villa owner, I enjoyed a rich ravioli dish at an Italian restaurant, Konoba Fratelli, which sat on a tiny inclined hill. And one night, I ran into a traditional Croatian dance performance outside Café & Restaurant Lvxor in the palace’s Peristyle square. What’s the rush? The streets and squares are meant to be meandered, not hastily passed through. Diocletian’s Palace and the surrounding neighborhoods have stood on the edge of the Mediterranean for centuries; that in and of itself is a reminder that to stand still is also a great accomplishment.
