Boarding our expedition ship, the Sylvia Earle, felt like crossing a threshold into another world.
I have always felt the magnetic pull of the Arctic—a place where the raw power of nature is on full display, where ice and sea merge in a dance that has shaped our planet for millennia. The idea of traversing the legendary Northwest Passage, a route that had captivated explorers for centuries, was a dream I held close. So when the opportunity arose to embark on an expedition from Greenland to the Canadian Arctic with Aurora Expeditions, I knew it was a journey I had to undertake.
Kangerlussuaq – Stepping into the Arctic Frontier
As our private charter flight from Toronto began its descent into Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, I pressed my forehead against the window, eyes wide with anticipation. Below, a vast expanse of ice and rock stretched to the horizon, punctuated by winding fjords and the glint of glaciers under the Arctic sun.
Stepping off the plane, a crisp chill enveloped me—a refreshing contrast to the bustling summer heat I'd left behind. Kangerlussuaq, with its modest airport and a handful of buildings, served as our gateway to the Arctic. Boarding our expedition ship, the Sylvia Earle, felt like crossing a threshold into another world. The vessel, a masterpiece of polar engineering from Aurora Expeditions, was designed specifically for navigating icy waters safely.
As we set sail, the midnight sun hung low in the sky, casting a golden glow that blurred the lines between day and night. Standing on the deck, I breathed in the pure Arctic air. The excitement was palpable, a mix of exhilaration and the slight trepidation that comes with venturing into the unknown.
Sisimiut – A Tapestry of Tradition and Modernity
Our first stop was the vibrant town of Sisimiut, Greenland's second-largest city. As we approached, the colorful wooden houses clinging to the rocky hillsides came into view, their bright hues a cheerful contrast against the rugged landscape. With a population of just over 5,000, Sisimiut blends traditional Inuit culture with modern influences in a way that's both charming and enlightening.
At the Sisimiut Museum, exhibits showcased traditional kayaks, intricately carved masks, and tools fashioned from bone and stone. I was particularly fascinated by the tales of "qajaq" (kayak) hunting—how hunters would silently glide across the water, attuned to every ripple and movement, a testament to their deep connection with nature.
Before departing, I purchased a pair of mittens made from muskox wool—the material, known as "qiviut," incredibly soft and warm. It felt like carrying a piece of Greenland's heritage with me, a tangible connection to this remarkable place.
Ilulissat – Among Giants of Ice
The next day we arrived in Ilulissat, aptly named "The Iceberg capital of the world" is home to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ilulissat Icefjord. We set out on a hike along a wooden boardwalk that wound through the tundra, expertly guided by Aurora Expeditions' knowledgeable staff. As we approached the viewpoint, the sight took my breath away. The icefjord was a river of ice, filled with massive icebergs that had calved from the Sermeq Kujalleq glacier—the most productive glacier outside Antarctica.
The scale was overwhelming. I felt insignificant, a mere speck in the presence of these ancient giants. The sun played upon the ice, creating a kaleidoscope of blues—from the palest aquamarine to deep indigo.
Later, we boarded a small boat for a closer look. The icebergs loomed above us, and the silence was profound—broken only by the distant cracking of ice and the lapping of water against the hull. At one point, we witnessed a calving event. A piece of ice broke away from an iceberg with a thunderous roar, crashing into the water and sending waves rippling outward. It was a stark reminder of the dynamic, ever-changing nature of this environment.
Niaqornat – Life at the Edge of the World
Our voyage continued to Niaqornat, a tiny village on the edge of the sea, home to just around 50 inhabitants. As we approached in our Zodiac boats, the entire community seemed to have gathered to greet us. We learned about their reliance on traditional hunting and fishing, skills passed down through generations. The impacts of climate change were a recurring theme—the thinning sea ice making hunting more dangerous and the migration patterns of animals shifting unpredictably.
Aurora Expeditions' commitment to responsible tourism was evident in our interactions. We were encouraged to engage respectfully with the locals, to listen more than we spoke, and to appreciate the delicate balance of life in this remote corner of the world.
An Uninhabited Island – The Silence of the Arctic
Later that day we anchored near an uninhabited island, eager to explore a place untouched by human development. The landscape was stark yet beautiful—a canvas of lichen-covered rocks in hues of orange and green, punctuated by clusters of hardy Arctic plants.
As we hiked, we came across the tracks and scat of an Arctic fox. Though elusive, the evidence of its presence was thrilling. The thought of these creatures thriving in such a harsh environment was inspiring. We paused at a high point overlooking the sea. The vastness was overwhelming—no signs of civilization, just endless sky and water.
This island visit reinforced the importance of preserving these wild places. The Arctic's delicate ecosystems are a reminder of nature's balance—a balance that is easily disrupted.
Red Head Island and the Crossing of Baffin Bay
After sailing through the night our journey brought us to Red Head Island, named for its striking red sandstone cliffs. The geology here was a visual feast—layers of rock telling stories of ancient seas and shifting continents. We observed icebergs that had broken off from the Greenland Ice Cap, each sculpted into unique shapes by wind and water.
The two-day crossing of Baffin Bay was a time of reflection and camaraderie. Onboard the Sylvia Earle, experts held lectures on Arctic ecology, the history of exploration, and the cultural heritage of the Inuit people. These sessions, a hallmark of Aurora Expeditions' educational approach, deepened our understanding and appreciation of the regions we were exploring.
One evening, as the sun dipped low, painting the sky with ribbons of pink and orange, we spotted a pod of humpback whales breaching in the distance. It was a magical moment that brought everyone together in shared wonder, a reminder of the unexpected joys that nature can provide.
Pond Inlet – Embracing Inuit Culture
Our first stop in Nunavut was Pond Inlet, or "Mittimatalik" as it's known locally. We were greeted by the sight of towering mountains and glaciers framing the small community. In the community hall, we were treated to performances of throat singing and drum dancing. A young girl performed a dance that depicted the changing seasons, her movements graceful and her storytelling vivid.
I had the opportunity to speak with an elder who shared insights about the changes he had witnessed over his lifetime—the retreating glaciers, the shifting animal populations, and the challenges faced by younger generations. "We must adapt," he said, "but we must also remember who we are." His words resonated deeply, encapsulating the delicate balance between tradition and change that I had observed throughout our journey.
Devon Island – The World's Largest Uninhabited Island
The following day we arrived at Devon Island. It's barren landscape is so Martian in appearance that NASA conducts research here to simulate conditions on the Red Planet. We explored the ruins of an RCMP outpost, relics of Canada's efforts to assert sovereignty in the High Arctic. The Sylvia Earle's expedition team provided context to our explorations, explaining the geological and historical significance of the island.
Standing on this desolate island, I felt a connection to those early adventurers, even as I appreciated the comforts and safety provided by modern expedition cruising.
The Fog Descends – Safety in the Arctic
The next day as we approached the historical Hudson's Bay Company station, a dense fog rolled in. Landing was deemed unsafe—especially in polar bear territory—so our expedition team devised an alternative plan: we would venture out in Zodiacs to view the station from the water.
Gliding silently over the water, the silhouette of the old station gradually emerged from the mist. The wooden structures stood stoically against the elements, their weathered facades telling stories of a bygone era when the fur trade was the lifeblood of these remote regions.
This day reinforced a valuable lesson about expedition travel: flexibility is key. The Arctic environment is unpredictable, and plans can change in an instant due to weather or wildlife considerations. Aurora Expeditions' experienced team handled the change seamlessly, turning a potential disappointment into another unique Arctic experience.
A Majestic Encounter with Polar Bears
The following afternoon, excitement buzzed through the ship as a polar bear and her cub were spotted near a cliffside. We quickly boarded the Zodiacs, maintaining the required 200-meter distance as per AECO guidelines. The mother bear was massive, her white fur gleaming in the sunlight. The cub, playful and curious, mimicked her movements, climbing over rocks and sniffing the air.
Watching them was a profound experience. The polar bear is an apex predator, yet there was a tenderness in their interaction—a universal expression of maternal care. Seeing these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat underscored the importance of conservation efforts. Their survival is intimately linked to the health of the Arctic ecosystem—a delicate balance threatened by climate change.
Walking on Water – Sea Ice Adventure
Cruising through the sea ice was like navigating a frozen labyrinth. Spotting a stable ice floe, our expedition leader announced we would have the chance to walk on the sea ice—a rare and thrilling opportunity that Aurora Expeditions is known for providing.
Stepping onto the ice was surreal. The surface was solid yet held the knowledge of the depths below. The ice stretched out like a vast white plain, meeting the horizon in a seamless blend of sky and snow. Some of us lay down to make snow angels, laughing like children. Others took the moment to meditate, absorbing the profound quietude.
Walking on the sea ice was a humbling experience—a reminder of the planet's wonders and our small place within it. I felt a deep gratitude for the opportunity to be in such a pristine environment, an experience few travelers ever have.
Beechey Island – Echoes of Exploration
Our final shore landing was at Beechey Island, a place steeped in history and mystery. It was here that Sir John Franklin's ill-fated expedition overwintered in 1845 before disappearing into the Arctic labyrinth. We visited the graves of three crew members, their headstones weathered but still bearing inscriptions.
Nearby, the remains of Northumberland House stood as a testament to the search efforts that followed Franklin's disappearance. Our guide, a historian from Aurora Expeditions, recounted the tales of subsequent expeditions—of hardships endured and discoveries made. Her narratives brought the site to life, allowing us to imagine the challenges faced by early Arctic explorers.
Radstock Bay – Caswell Tower and a Close Encounter
Our final stop on this expedition brought us to Radstock Bay, celebrated for its dramatic landscapes and the impressive Caswell Tower. As we approached, our guides spotted a polar bear roaming near our intended landing site. Adaptable as ever, the Aurora Expeditions team quickly organized a Zodiac cruise to experience the majesty of Caswell Tower from the water.
From the safety of our boats, we observed the polar bear ambling along the shore—a magnificent embodiment of the Arctic wilderness. This unexpected turn reinforced the importance of flexibility in the Arctic. Even without setting foot on land, the breathtaking scenery and the intimate wildlife encounter made our time at Radstock Bay unforgettable.
Embracing the Unpredictable – Adapting to Change
As we prepared to sail south to Cambridge Bay to disembark, news came that thick sea ice blocked our passage. Plans changed swiftly—we would instead disembark in Resolute and fly out from there. This adaptability is a hallmark of Aurora Expeditions, and it was impressive to see it in action.
In Resolute, we had the chance to explore one last community. The residents welcomed us warmly, sharing insights into life at one of the northernmost inhabited places on Earth. Their stories echoed themes we'd encountered throughout the journey—resilience, adaptation, and a deep connection to the land.
The Arctic's Lasting Impact: Why You Should Go
As I reflect on my journey through the Northwest Passage with Aurora Expeditions, I'm struck by how deeply the Arctic has affected me. The vast, pristine landscapes, the resilient wildlife, and the warm-hearted communities we encountered have left an indelible mark on my soul. This expedition aboard the Sylvia Earle was more than a mere adventure; it was a profound exploration of our planet's fragile beauty and the indomitable spirit of those who call this harsh environment home.
The Arctic taught me invaluable lessons about resilience, adaptation, and the delicate balance of nature. Walking on sea ice, witnessing calving glaciers, and observing polar bears in their natural habitat brought climate change from an abstract concept to a tangible reality. The insights gained from Inuit elders and the Aurora Expeditions' team of experts deepened my understanding of this region's ecological and cultural significance. These experiences fostered a renewed commitment to environmental stewardship and a deeper appreciation for the interconnectedness of our world.
For those seeking an adventure that transcends ordinary travel, Aurora Expeditions' Northwest Passage voyage offers an unparalleled opportunity. It's a chance to witness breathtaking natural wonders, from towering icebergs to the surreal experience of the midnight sun. You'll have close encounters with Arctic wildlife, engage with Inuit communities, and walk in the footsteps of legendary explorers. The expert guidance provided ensures not just your safety, but also a rich, educational experience that will challenge your perspectives and inspire personal growth.
Embarking on this Arctic odyssey is more than a vacation—it's an investment in yourself and our planet. As the Arctic rapidly changes, the opportunity to witness its majesty in this way may not always be available. Whether you're an adventure seeker, a nature enthusiast, or someone looking to expand your horizons, this journey promises experiences that will resonate long after you've returned home. Don't just dream about the Arctic—experience it, embrace it, and let it change you. The memories you create, the insights you gain, and the transformation you undergo will be your most treasured souvenirs from this once-in-a-lifetime expedition.
